When I am
cooking, the words The Doc fears most are, “Dinner tonight is a little on the
spicy side, but don’t worry, it’s not that hot.”
This is her cue
to arm herself with her weapons of choice:
sour cream, a carton of half, cheese, ranch dressing, half and half, and
a jar of tamarind chutney. She believes
their liberal use will somehow help mitigate the effects of red peppers. I understand this, since as a child I
believed that if you had too much salt on your food, you could negate it
somehow with black pepper. Since I could
just barely taste black pepper, I thought it was used like an eraser on a
pencil, to correct a salt mistake.
People
occasionally say that my sense of taste has been dulled by the overuse of Texas
Ketchup (Tabasco) and similar seasonings.
I prefer to believe that my taste buds have evolved to a higher
plane.
Still, I will
admit that even I once had a problem with some hot
peppers (but only once!).
Years ago, while
I was in grad school, I worked at a living history museum in my spare
time. The place was huge, comprised of
hundreds of acres on which were dozens of buildings, more or less typical of
life in New Mexico roughly about the year 1700 (although a few of the buildings
were devoted to showing life in the late territorial period—say, about
1880). Most of the buildings were real,
although several had been moved onsite.
A few structures were actually movie sets, since the idyllic setting was
frequently used in movies. (If you
carefully watch one particular famous western, you can see the toes of my
cowboy boots in one scene. If you have
very good eyes, you will learn that at least one cowboy in the film had
rubber-soled boots.)
There were two
mills on the property, both powered by water.
The larger of the two, had a 20-foot tall overshot waterwheel and was
gorgeous. It dated back to the late
nineteenth century and was one of six such large flour mills that had once
provided the U.S. Government with enough flour to feed the Navaho. The government had discovered—much to its
consternation—that when people were forcibly moved to infertile land, they had
to be fed. Simultaneously, several
industrious merchants learned that it was possible to buy a mill—in kit
form—and make quite a profit selling flour to the Army.
This large mill
could make over five tons of flour a day, but while the mill was still
completely operational, the museum never did run it at capacity. The old wood and adobe mill could not
possibly pass a modern-day health inspection, so we ran the mill at the slowest
possible speed and during a day-long demonstration produced 75 pounds of
beautiful flour that we were forced to throw away. (And I did toss it, but first I took it home
and ran it through my family’s digestive systems.)
The large
complex mill was a wonder to look at and a joy to work in—with all those gears,
pulleys, and long leather belts powering the machinery. It was a marvel what could be done with
massive water power. There was another
mill on the property that people hardly ever noticed—a small adobe hut built
over an acequía ditch, with a three foot horizontal wheel. This was one of the last remaining
operational examples of the corn mills that Spanish colonists had built using
only local materials.
The genius of
those small mills—technically gristmills—was their simple design, their
home-made parts, and their use of small streams of water. Despite their simplicity, each was capable of
grinding 300 pounds of cornmeal a day.
Without a mill, colonial women had to spend a large part of every day in
the back-breaking labor of using a mano and metate (pictured at left) to grind
enough corn to make the daily tortillas for a family. The historical records indicate that such
mills were scattered across colonial New Mexico and were probably used
communally.
What the records
did not show was exactly how such a mill operated. Since there were no owner's manuals, and no
one alive had ever seen one working, restoring the old mill was a lot of trial
and error—mostly error. The ruins of
several mills were examined and the remaining debris studied and compared,
tested, discarded and tried again. More
than once it was discovered that what had been thought to be a discarded stick
or rotting length of leather turned out to be a part crucial to the mill's
operation.
Finally, one
day, it all worked and after finely adjusting the gaps between the two
limestone grinding wheels, we were producing fresh cornmeal. Have you ever smelled freshly ground
cornmeal? It immediately makes you long
for your grandmother's cornbread, fresh out of a warm cast-iron skillet!
Years ago in
Mexico, I discovered the incredible taste of fresh-caught trout. As fast as the fish were caught, they were
cleaned, fried, and eaten and then the process was started all over again. No other fish in my life has tasted half as
good as those trout. I was happy to
discover that fresh ground cornmeal produced pretty much the same effect when quickly
made into cornbread.
Naturally, since
the old mill was constructed of ancient leather, wood, and adobe, it would
never pass a health inspection, either, and we were required to throw
the cornmeal away. Every employee of the
museum helped in this task, at a rate of about five pounds at a time.
Both mills were
operational for only a few days a year, during fairs and history days, to
carefully demonstrate how people had lived decades in the past. During one of those days, an elderly woman
told us that her grandfather had worked in one of the corn mills back in the
1880’s. She told us that, besides
grinding corn, her father had occasionally ground chile peppers.
This was the
first confirmation of something we had already suspected. In among the abundant small pieces of wood in the ruins of some of
the old mills we had examined, some were faintly stained a dark crimson from
chiles. We knew that at the end of the
19th century, chile ristras had been used as a medium of exchange at trading
posts in parts of New Mexico that were so remote that a barter economy was
still common as late as the start of the Second World War. It made sense that the store owner would take
those bundles of large chile peppers and have them ground up into chile powder
to make the goods easier to transport.
Three of us
worked in those mills, and as soon as we heard that woman’s story about her
grandfather, we all had to try making fresh chile powder. Getting hold of 200 pounds of dried red chile
was not exactly hard in New Mexico, as chile is still a major agricultural
crop. We put a couple of pieces of
plywood across some sawhorses, and started hacking up the dried chiles into
rough pieces so we could feed the chunks into the wooden hopper that normally
held the dried corn.
Note.
The country in South America is Chile,
the pepper plant grown in New Mexico is chile, the powdered form of this
pepper is chile powder, and if you add other spices such as salt, garlic
powder and onion powder, it is chili powder. The latter is used to make a meat dish
originating in Texas called chili con carne. If that dish is made up North by damn Yankees
who add everything from lima beans to macaroni, it is called crap.
it took a couple
of minutes to find the right adjustment of the grinding stones to produce true
chile powder, but in about half an hour, we were producing large quantities of
finely ground and wonderfully aromatic chile powder. We inhaled deeply, the smell was even more
pleasing than freshly ground corn meal.
We just stood there admiring the accumulating spice and discussing what
we were going to cook with fresh chile powder…
And then we
began to cough. And wheeze. And had tears running down our faces. Our eyes burned and our throats were on fire. Our lips hurt. And the tips of our fingers
hurt. EVERYTHING BURNED AND HURT!
We ran out of that
mill, sprinting to the nearest building where we fought over a water hose that
was simultaneously desperately needed and absolutely inadequate to the task at
hand. A swimming pool of fresh, cold
milk couldn’t have quenched that fire.
Every pore on our skin, everywhere, had somehow absorbed that
chile powder and was vigorously objecting to the process. We had inadvertently produced a military
grade biological weapon of mass destruction.
To this day, I wonder why Mexico is not considered a military superpower!
The worst part
was that the mill was still running. We still had about 150 pounds of chile to
grind up, and since the large hopper was full, it was going to continue the
process until the irrigation ditch dried up or the hopper ran out. We just stood there about 50 feet away,
watching a small pink cloud of deadly dust drift out of the mill’s door.
There was a
brief discussion where we considered calling the authorities and having the old
mill declared a superfund site, but eventually we began scouring the various
museum buildings in search of protective clothing. Finally, we gathered together enough
coveralls, gloves, rain coats, scarves, motorcycle helmets, swim goggles and
other assorted gear that we looked like a crew of deranged "Michelin
Men". Picture in your mind what you
would wear if you kept a hive of killer bees in Antarctica, and that was about
how we were dressed: primitive hazmat suits!
With a little
painful trial and error, we discovered that if we held our breath, we could work
in that tiny adobe mill for about thirty-seconds at a time. We eventually, ground up about 30 pounds of
chile powder, releasing an estimated additional 20 pounds into the air.
Given the
prevailing winds and the location of that mill, we estimated that most of the
noxious cloud eventually blew into the Trinity nuclear testing site, where it
should feel right at home with the slowly decaying plutonium. That’s probably the real reason
for all the fences and guards there.