Thirty years
ago, I was in Honduras researching a revolution that helped establish The
United Fruit Company as the 800-pound gorilla in Central America for decades to
come. While I had already found a
little information along the coast, at the site of the actual banana
plantations, most of the information I was now looking for was located in the
government archives.
Researching in
Tegucigalpa, the capital city, had its attractions: lodging, food, and Port Royal beer were all
inexpensive. On the downside, my hotel
room came with a free, mandatory sauna, every meal I ate came with bananas, and
it became painfully obvious that if a poor country has a financial crises, the
first agency to lose its funding is the archives.
Just getting to
Tegucigalpa is an ordeal. Toncontin
Airport has just one runway—one that is woefully too short—and it is nestled in
the mountains in such a way that approaching planes have to make an ‘S’ turn between peaks on the approach
and plant the wheels firmly on the numbers.
This is a trick that not every plane has successfully executed; the last
disaster was the crash of an Airbus 320 from El Salvador that ran off the end
of the runway. (Though to be fair, the
pilot had ignored the control tower and attempted to land on the wrong
end of the runway, with the wind at his back, and only touched down after he
had flown past half the already inadequate runway. That’s not a landing, that’s a
murder-suicide.)
After I survived
the landing, my first hint that things were, perhaps, not going to go as
planned was my passage through customs.
No one actually even glanced at my luggage—evidently Honduras is a place
from which you smuggle goods out, not into. Then, when the clerk examined my
passport, he asked me a difficult question.
“Is your trip
business or pleasure, Señor?”
This stumped
me: As a grad student, I didn’t believe there was any way I was
going to make any money off my thesis.
(Now, thirty years later, I can still attest to that fact.) I wasn’t employed, but I had come to
"work" on my project.
“Pleasure,” I
announced, finally.
The customs
official looked up from my passport.
“Really?” he asked. From the
surprised look on his face, I got the distinct impression that I was the first
person to ever give that answer.
Nevertheless, he stamped my passport and let me officially enter his
country. It was time to do research.
After depositing
my bags in my rather decrepit hotel room, I hurried to the American
Embassy. I had a letter of introduction
to the embassy’s
cultural attaché officer—someone who I hoped would be able to direct me toward
a treasure trove of historical primary documents. (Preferably something no one else had ever
seen—or published—before). It would be
okay with me if the documents were stored in the Ark of the Covenant.
It’s not hard to find the US embassy in
Tegucigalpa: it’s
the largest building in town, ensconced safely behind massive walls, guarded by
Wackenhut Security Guards. At the hotel,
I had learned that due to a drought, the water in the town was only turned on
for two hours each morning. Evidently,
this news had not reached the embassy, since as I approached, I came upon a
half dozen Honduran women in matching gray uniforms who were washing the
embassy sidewalks with garden hoses. As
I was to later discover, this was just one of the reasons the locals hated the
embassy.
I had a long
wait in the embassy lobby, which provided me with more than enough time to
inspect the historical display on “Violence in America During the 1960’s”.
Some of the displays featured the assassinations of Kennedy and Martin
Luther King, while others were about race riots in Harlem and Los Angeles. I have never figured out why the United
States decided to showcase this information in an overseas embassy. Maybe it was to discourage immigration?
After several
hours, I finally made it past the Marines, up an elevator, and into the office
of the Third Assistant Cultural Affairs Officer. The smile vanished from his face as soon as I
mentioned that I was doing research into a Honduran revolution, but the smile
instantly returned when he learned that I was referring to the Revolution of
1911, and had no interest in any recent revolutionary activity. I was to see that same sequence of
smile-worried frown-smile every time I explained what, then when I was
researching.
After a few
minutes of conversation, and carefully scrutinizing my letter of introduction,
the embassy officer gave me his only tidbit of research advice.
“Somewhere in
this town, I think there is a university,” he said. “You might want to try their library.”
Warmly thanking
the State Department official, I left the embassy, stopping only long enough on
the front steps to admire the view of the Universidad Nacional Autonoma de
Honduras—the large campus easily visible in the distance. (Probably visible from the cultural attaché’s office window).
Over the next
ten days, I spent a lot of time at the university, where I discovered two
interesting things: First, I owned a
better collection of history books on the revolution in question than the
library did. Second, the brilliantly
wise faculty of the History Department had chipped in together and bought a bar
across the street from the university.
Now, that's edjumacation.
It is highly
unlikely that the collective faculty of Enema U—in any department—would
voluntarily cooperate long enough to purchase a bottle of Boone’s Farm Strawberry Hill together.
I prowled
newspaper offices, government archives, bookstores, libraries, and
museums. Occasionally, I would find
something useful, but truthfully, I didn't find much. I had been far more successful researching
this subject in Washington D.C., at the National Archives, or in the archives
at Tulane University. Now that I was
actually at the site of revolution…I found almost nothing.
There was one
source I really coveted. I desperately
wanted to read the telegrams sent by the Honduran Ambassador in the United
States back to the Honduran State Department in Tegucigalpa. Since the Revolution of 1911 was funded by
American businessmen and fought over the objections of both the American State
Department and the U.S. Navy, these telegrams had to be full of
information that I needed and were more than half the reason I had come
to Honduras.
Every morning, I
woke early, had a breakfast of strong Honduran coffee and the inevitable fruit
plate (read that as "more bananas") and then I would hurry over to
the government offices and seek permission to view their files. It took almost no time at all to learn that
the telegrams I wanted to read had been bound into a large leather book and
were stored in an office on the second floor.
Each day, I would go to that office, explain my mission, and then
patiently wait while a secretary went to check on whether a decision had been
reached by someone in authority as to whether I was to be allowed to read those
telegrams.
While I waited,
I was always politely served more strong black Honduran coffee. As I sipped my coffee, I could actually see
the volume I wanted to study. For days,
the answer was always the same: 'No
decision had yet been reached. Could I
come back mañana?' Yes, I could. And did...for many days in a row.
The rest of the
days was spent in libraries, usually reading fading, yellowed newspapers. In the evening, the local movie theater had
air-conditioning and cheap tickets. The
snack counter had a brisk business selling sugared popcorn and dried banana
chips. Several days went by exactly like
this: coffee, reading, bananas, and Port
Royal beer.
Finally, I was
running out of both patience and money, and had exhausted every other source I could think of in Honduras. There was literally nothing left to read
except that blasted bound file of telegrams at the State Department. By this point, I had gotten to know several
of the secretaries in that office rather well.
After all, we had shared many, many cups of coffee together. About the only thing that ever happened in that
office, as far as I could tell, was drinking coffee and answering the phone.
I begged my new
friend: 'Could she please get me an
appointment with someone who could make a decision?' I was at the point where I no longer cared if
I actually got to see inside the book or not, but would someone make a
decision? The secretary thought she
could help. This may or may not have
been influenced by the $20 I slipped
her. If I could wait an hour, she
thought I might speak to the Assistant Secretary of State.
I waited. Considerably longer than an hour later, I was
escorted into a large office where two men in white shirts were working on an
aging Mr. Coffee machine with a letter opener and a few other assorted office
tools. I was introduced to the one with
the letter opener, the Assistant Secretary of State.
Once again, I
began my practiced speech about researching an old and forgotten
revolution. Both men glanced up sharply
at the word revolution, but as usual, relaxed when they learned that all the
participants were long, long dead. I
explained what I wanted to read, where the book was located, and why I wished
to see it. And as I talked, I noticed
that the nichrome heating element on the coffee pot was loose and one end was
corroded. As I ended my spiel about the
1911 revolution, I pointed out the busted heating element. Immediately, the coffee pot was thrust into
my hands.
Refusing the
proffered letter opener, I used my Swiss Army knife—remember, this was before
9/11 when no one thought anything about someone flying with a modest pocket
knife—I scraped a shiny spot on the end of the wire’s terminal and reattached
the heating element.
While I worked,
the Assistant Secretary of State said, “I don’t think that should be a problem, let
me check with the Secretary of State, but I’m sure he will have no
objections. Can you check back with me
in a few days?”
As he talked,
the coffee pot, now reassembled and turned on, began to reheat. The little hot plate element was obviously
getting hot to the touch and the switch was glowing bright red.
I was
crestfallen. Another few days meant staying
at least another week in Honduras.
Trying not to appear ungrateful, I explained to the official that all my
research was done, that I was running out of both time and money, and pleaded,
'Was there any way that the Secretary could be asked today?'
Without missing
a beat, the assistant secretary turned to the other man and said in Spanish,
“What do you think, Carlos? Can he see
the book?”
It took me a
full second to realize that the other man, currently with his hand inside a Mr.
Coffee, was none other than the Secretary of State for Honduras. He looked up at me, smiled, and in clear
unaccented English said, “Sure, why not?”
Five minutes
later, I was reading the book. I took a
couple of photographs, and meticulously copied two telegrams. Twenty-four hours later, I was back in New
Mexico. (Taking off from that
airport is not much fun, either!)
I would love to
tell you what the telegrams said, but it would take longer than a simple
blog. It was important stuff, and
personally, I think my fascinating thesis should be made into a movie (I’ve always thought that Nick Nolte
should star!). Until the movie is
produced, I’m
sure that Inter-Library Loan can get you a copy to read.
It turns out
that one of the critical research skills a historian needs is small appliance
repair.