Quick! Who became President of the United States
because of coffee? You can check your
answer a little later.
Andy Jackson did
not owe his presidency to coffee, but he was certainly a man who
enjoyed an occasional drink—and I don’t mean coffee. He understood alcohol and what it could do to
the men who drank it. So, it is not all
that surprising that in 1832, as President and Commander in Chief of the Army,
he ended the daily liquor ration for the troops. Instead of whiskey, the men were to get
coffee—a tradition that lasts to this day.
This simple step
probably saved more lives than you think, not just because it lessened risk
for—but by no means protected all—intoxicated men with weapons from the occasional accident. It was the boiling of the liquid that saved
the most lives. The simple process of
making hot water
helped eliminate some of the dangers of dysentery and cholera, either of which
killed more soldiers in the 19th century than bullets.
Without knowing
about germ theory, people noticed the healthful quality of a morning cup of
coffee. A US Army field manual from
1861 even included the helpful advice: “Coffee tastes better if the latrines are dug downstream from an
encampment.”
During the Civil
War, the standard Northern coffee daily ration was ten pounds of green coffee
per 100 men. A supply sufficient for two
to three days was apportioned into small piles, each issued to a single
soldier, who would wrap it in paper, oiled cloth, or rubber bag to protect the
valuable commodity. When possible,
each man would bring water to a boil in his tin dipper or a special tiny pot
called a ‘mucket’ and add enough of the ground coffee to the hot water to make
a single cup of coffee. How much to add
was a constant battle between the availability of a coffee ration and the
demands of hunger.
According to
long established military tradition, there are five grades of coffee; Coffee,
Java, Joe, Jamoke, and Carbon Remover.
The bottom two can only be made by true coffee illiterates; tea
drinkers, the US Army, and Mormons. If
you are making your coffee in a tin cup, held with baling wire over a camp
fire, using pathogen-laden water, darkened with stale coffee and moldy
sugar….you should probably make the coffee strong enough to float a
horseshoe. When the coffee was strong
enough, a splash of cold water would be added to the pot to settle the grounds
to the bottom of the pot and a cup of coffee could be gently poured into a tin
cup.
The standard
practice when the coffee was ready, was for the soldier to pour a little onto
his tin plate to help clean it, dump it out, and then add hardtack to what remained in the cup. These brick-hard crackers could not be eaten
until moistened in something, and submerging them in hot coffee was probably as
beneficial to the soldier’s health as it was to his teeth. There was a reason the soldiers called
hardtack ‘worm castles’.
Try to visualize
the scene. During the war, wherever the
Army of the Potomac stopped for the night, it was suddenly the second largest
town in the Confederacy. Hundreds of
tiny fires would be lit from scavenged sticks and repurposed fence posts. Then a strange buzzing noise would fill the
air as shared coffee grinders were put to work for the evening meal.
During the Civil
War, the army tried to simplify the distribution of coffee by dispensing a form
of ‘instant coffee that was a dehydrated essence of coffee and sugar that
looked and tasted like petroleum.
Distributed in quart cans, a teaspoon mixed with hot water produced a cup
of ‘instant coffee’ that no soldier would touch. The army rather quickly withdrew this
product from distribution.
Coffee was
absolutely necessary to the men. A
recent study of Civil War diaries revealed that solders mentioned coffee more
often than ‘rifle’, ‘cannon’,
or ‘bullet’.
By the end of
the war, the average Union soldier consumed 36 pounds of it a year! Most of it was issued green, with the
soldiers roasting and grinding the beans themselves, using makeshift tools and
improvised methods. One rifle was even
manufactured with a coffee grinder built into the stock!
One Union
general even timed his army’s attacks based on when his men had consumed their
morning coffee. As General Benjamin
Butler assured another general, “If your men get their coffee early in the morning you can hold.”
In the South,
things were not quite so cheery. After
President Lincoln ordered a naval blockade of Southern ports, coffee and tea
became increasingly difficult to obtain and the price per pound
skyrocketed. Starting at about $3.00 a
pound, by the close of the war, coffee was almost impossible to obtain even at
the escalated price of $60 per pound.
This shortage
led to the South's inventing a variety of what came to be called ‘Lincoln
Coffee’. The list of coffee substitutes
is almost endless. If it was green and
could be grown, then somebody, somewhere used it to make "coffee" by
drying, roasting, grinding, and percolating it.
Peanuts, barley, okra seeds, acorns, barley, beans, beets, bran, chestnuts,
chicory, corn meal, cotton seeds, dandelion, sweet potatoes, peas, persimmons,
rice, rye sorghum molasses, sugar cane seeds, watermelon seeds and wheat
berries were just a few of the things tried.
Local newspapers would even publish recipes on how to brew something
that just might—kind of—look like coffee.
The most desperate for coffee have to have been the Union prisoners of
war in Andersonville, who tried to brew coffee with scorched slivers of wood.
It is safe to
say that none of this tasted like coffee unless you had the type of imagination
that was brought on by severe deprivation.
A few of these recipes would surface again in the Great Depression of
the 1930’s, but today the reminder of this ersatz coffee can be found in
Louisiana where chicory is still routinely added to coffee.
And the
president who owes his start to coffee?
During the Battle of Antietam, a nineteen year-old Sergeant McKinley was
mentioned in dispatches when he braved enemy fire by taking coffee and food to
the men at the front line. His bravery
under fire earned him the personal friendship of Rutherford B. Hayes and a
promotion to the rank of Lieutenant.
For decades
after the war, every politician running for office used his war record, a
practice known as 'waving the bloody flag'. The last veteran of the Civil War
to live in the White House, McKinley ended the war with the rank of Brevet
Major, and for the next thirty years campaigned on the basis of a 'bloody
coffee cup'. If you visit Antietam,
there is a monument—thirty-three feet tall—to McKinley and his coffee run.