When I was growing up in Texas, every family had a pickup truck. Long before I ever had a driver’s license, I knew how to handle “three on the tree,” and I knew that the lug nuts on the driver’s side of Dodge pickups had reverse threads. I also knew that the glove compartment held a flashlight, and I knew that under the seat you could find a lug wrench, a bumper jack, and—wedged into the seat springs—a coffee can containing a roll of toilet paper.
To be completely honest, that can also contained a handful of napkins and a couple of books of matches. Every truck had that coffee can. When my wife and I bought an old ’63 Ford pickup back in 1973, it came with such a can already under the seat. Hell, the automakers should have made it standard equipment.So, when my boys—What’s-His-Name and The-Other-One—recently each bought themselves a new pickup, I thought I would send them the essential equipment needed for any proper truck. Not jumper cables. Not a tire gauge. That coffee can. The rest they can figure out for themselves.
It turns out I can’t. They don’t make that coffee can anymore!
If we go back to the late 1800s, coffee was sold in whatever quantity you wanted. The clerk would pull the beans from a wooden barrel, scooping out a pound, and pouring them into a sack. Some stores roasted and ground the beans for you, or you could take them home and roast them yourself (usually badly).
In 1890, John Arbuckle began selling pre-roasted coffee—Arbuckle’s Ariosa—in paper bags. It didn’t take long for competitors to follow suit and begin roasting coffee commercially. There was, however, a problem: Once roasted, coffee beans immediately begin to lose flavor when exposed to air.Hills Bros. solved that problem around 1900 by selling coffee in vacuum-sealed one-pound steel cans. This innovation is widely credited as the beginning of modern coffee packaging and paved the way for the standard one pound can that dominated American grocery shelves for most of the 20th century. (If you are wondering, Arbuckle—once the largest coffee company in the world—continued selling coffee in paper bags and was eventually eclipsed by competitors. History is cruel that way.)
And that’s how things stayed for roughly seventy years. You bought coffee in one-, two-, or three-pound cans, opened them with a key, and when the coffee was gone, the can went to work holding nails, loose change, toy soldiers, marbles, or a roll of toilet paper destined for truck duty. It is no exaggeration to say there may have been people who drank coffee primarily to acquire that steel can.Once opened, of course, the freshness of the coffee began an immediate and irreversible decline. There was no factory-supplied reseal. People improvised with wax paper, folded cardboard, saucers, rubber bands, or simply left the can open and hoped for the best. Freshness was… aspirational.
In the late 1960s and early 1970s, coffee companies began including free snap-on plastic lids to reseal the cans—an idea most prominently associated with Maxwell House and quickly copied by Folgers and everyone else. Even now, I would wager that one of those plastic lids is lurking in your kitchen junk drawer.Then came the inflationary 1970s, when the price of everything rose sharply. By the end of the decade, the price of coffee had increased by roughly 40 percent, and the bean counters at the coffee companies began to worry. Would consumers balk at higher prices? Would sticker shock kill sales?
The answer was no. Coffee is what economists call an inelastic good. If you are dependent on caffeine, you will buy your morning cup of coffee even if it requires selling your children to pharmaceutical companies for product testing. Cigarettes, coffee, insulin, and water are all inelastic goods—the quantity demanded doesn’t change much when prices rise. Consumers might change brands, but they don’t quit.
So… Instead of raising prices too visibly, coffee companies made the one pound can just a little smaller. Sixteen ounces quietly became fourteen and a half. Keep the can looking familiar, make it slightly thinner, and hope no one notices.
This kind of thievery—I mean marketing—is called, “shrinkflation”. Candy bars, cereal boxes, laundry detergent, toilet paper rolls, potato chips—you name it—we got less of it for the same price. Almost overnight, the half-gallon tub of ice cream was replaced by the 1.5-quart tub. This is also when advertisers discovered phrases like “convenient size” and “portion control.” (The latter roughly translates to, “we want credit for your self-restraint.”)
The truly ironic part is that coffee wasn’t actually getting more expensive in real terms. While inflation raised prices, it also raised wages. Measured in hours worked, coffee became cheaper. In 1970, a minimum-wage worker needed about 28 minutes of labor to buy a pound of coffee. In 1980, it took only about 20 minutes. Shrinkflation was deployed to fight the perception of higher prices, not the reality.Shrinkflation didn’t stop, of course. By the mid-1980s, the can had shrunk again, to about 13 ounces, accompanied by cheerful announcements about “packaging efficiency” and “improved roasting.” While roasting technology has improved over the last half-century, those improvements are about consistency and cost control, not about taste.
By the early 1990s, rising steel prices doomed the classic can altogether. In its place came the 11.5-ounce plastic “Aromaseal” container. To disguise the smaller size, the plastic was molded with deep finger dents—because who doesn’t remember how impossible it was to pick up a one-pound metal coffee can?
Within a decade, coffee began appearing in “canisters,” meaning cardboard tubes marketed as environmentally friendly. They are not. The interior of those canisters is lined with a metallicized aluminum-polymer barrier bonded with industrial adhesive. They are no more recyclable than the plastic containers they replaced.Nor is the latest incarnation any better. Coffee is now commonly sold in 10-ounce foil bags. It took 130 years, but we’ve come full circle: we’re back to buying coffee in bags, just like John Arbuckle sold. The difference is that Arbuckle’s bags were paper, while modern “foil bags” are laminated composites—plastic films, metallicized aluminum layers, inner plastic sealants, inks, and adhesives that are chemically bonded
together. After a century in a landfill, all they’ll get is dirty.I have a modest proposal. Let’s go back to the steel one-pound coffee can. When I eventually tire of using it to store nuts and bolts, I can recycle it—because nothing is more recyclable than steel. Yes, it will cost more than a 10-ounce bag of coffee. I don’t mind.
And you don’t even have to give me a plastic lid. I still have one.
So when my boys ask why their brand-new pickups don’t have that coffee can under the seat, I’m tempted to tell them it’s because modern trucks are more “efficient.” Lighter. Streamlined. Optimized. All the words we use when something useful quietly disappears. They’ve got heated seats, backup cameras, and dashboards that look like flight simulators, but they don’t have a place for a roll of toilet paper and a book of matches. Progress, I suppose.
























