During the
summer of 1993, I spent a couple of weeks doing research in Tegucigalpa,
Honduras. This meant that during the
day, I spent long hours in dusty archives, dimly lit libraries, and overstaffed
government offices. During the nights, I
spent equally long hours in bars.
My reason—well
one of them—was because the capital of Honduras during the summer is as hot as
Southern New Mexico—but with ten times the humidity. Because of a water shortage, the town's water
supply only functioned two hours a day: between 4:00 and 6:00 AM. Every morning, when the water was turned back
on, you could hear the water rushing through the old, leaky pipes. The air escaping made a low moaning noise
that echoed off the mountains that surround the city. (This early morning sound has often been
theorized to be the cause of the town's high birth rate. At 4:00 AM, it is too early to get out of
bed, but too late to go back to sleep.)
My hotel room
was so small it would have been illegal to use it as a jail cell, even in
Mississippi. In the evenings, the room
had no water, no window, and nothing resembling air conditioning, so it was no
wonder I spent my evenings in bars, drinking the local beer, Port Royal. (Let me give you a small travel tip: if you are forced to brush your teeth with
either beer or Coca-Cola—use the beer.
You wouldn't believe what happens to Crest Toothpaste when you mix it
with Coke.)
Properly
lubricated, the locals in the bars had some great stories about life in
Honduras. One of my new-found friends
insisted that up in the mountains, there was a tree that was poisonous to
touch. He claimed you could find it by
looking for the dead birds that lay around it.
But there was an even better story, about a strange war Honduras had
fought with El Salvador over a soccer game—The 1969 Football War.
One of the
bar's patron had vivid memories of a C-47 (that's the military version of the
civilian DC-3, an old, slow cargo plane from the second world war) flying lower
than the surrounding mountain tops as it wound its way through the valley
holding the country's capital. The plane
was so low that the man could clearly see the men rolling bombs out the cargo
plane's door. When the plane ran out of
bombs destroying the runways at the city's sole airport, the men threw out
sandbags on the old adobe buildings of the city center.
The Football
War did happen, and although a soccer game really was the triggering event,
there were a few other important factors that brought on the war.
El Salvador
is geographically a small country with a relatively large population for its
size. This gives it the second highest
population density in the Western Hemisphere—right behind Haiti. Almost all of the usable farmland is in the
hands of only fourteen families or corporations. What little arable land is
left is not nearly enough to satisfy peasants desperate for a small measure of
financial independence.
Honduras, on
the other hand, is much larger, with a smaller population, and still had (at
least in 1969), vacant farmland. The
availability of lands and jobs had enticed approximately 300,000 Salvadoran
peasants to illegally enter Honduras.
Some purchased land legally, others simply squatted on land and
established homesteads, and others found work in the cities. A few Salvadorans even opened stores or
started businesses in Honduras.
By American
standards, 300,000 doesn't seem like many, but in Honduras, this meant that one
out of every eight workers was from El Salvador.
In the late 1960's, a disease devastated the banana plantations, forcing
companies like United Fruit and Standard Fruit to begin importing bananas from
Ecuador and laying off workers.
Honduras
responded to civilian anger and a rising unemployment rate by cracking down on
the Salvadorans. An agrarian reform law
was passed under which a lot of immigrant farms were seized—even those that had
been legally purchased. Diplomatic
relations between the two countries rapidly broke down.
Still, an
actual war might have been averted if not for the 1970 World Cup. The two countries played the first of three matches
in Tegucigalpa, where the locals may have been less than proper hosts. Thousands of locals stood outside the
Salvadoran team's hotel and cheered, honked horns, and beat metal pans all
night in an attempt to prevent the team from resting the night before the match.
The next day,
the Hondurans won 2-1, but the deciding point was scored in overtime. Feeling it had been cheated, all of El
Salvador screamed, "Foul!"
The second
game was played in San Salvador, and when El Salvador won, Honduras not only
screamed, but began looting Salvadoran shops in Tegucigalpa and organized an
economic boycott on all goods manufactured in the rival country.
Wisely, the
third game was played in Mexico City.
The Salvadorans sat on one side of the stadium, with the Hondurans on
the opposite side; separating the two were 5000 Mexican cops. Honduras won the game, so El Salvador broke
off diplomatic relations with Honduras, and then sent both its army and air
force to invade its neighbor.
Interestingly,
both countries had similar military forces; both countries had armies about the
same size and both countries used equipment given to them by the United States.
Surplus World War II tanks, guns, trucks, and jeeps were used on both sides and
both countries flew F4U Corsairs and F-51 Mustangs.
The only real
military difference between the two countries was that the Honduran Air Force
was much larger. Perhaps this is why El
Salvador attacked first, and damaged the runways of the Tegucigalpa airport
where most of the Honduran Air Force was based.
During this raid, the Salvadorian Air Force did, indeed, use an aging
cargo plane to bomb the Honduran capital by rolling bombs out a door designed to
be used by passengers.
Despite diligent
research, I was unable to either confirm or repudiate the story about El
Salvador's bombing buildings with sand bags.
(But, if it is any consolation, the story about a tree with poisonous
bark turns out to be true. Though it was
not, in fact, surrounded by dead birds, I have seen it. I did not touch it.)
For the next
two days, El Salvador controlled the sky, allowing its army to penetrate into
Honduras about a hundred miles. This was
made easier by the sudden discovery that a Honduran general on the border had a
smaller army than his payroll indicated.
It was probably a bookkeeping error.
After two
days of repairing the runways at the Tegucigalpa airport, Honduras finally got
its planes into the air.
In the last
aerial dogfight in history pitting conventionally powered, propeller-driven
aircraft against each other—Honduras took control of the sky. If you are interested, the Corsairs proved
superior to the Mustangs, but this may have been due more to maintenance
requirements and the availability of spare parts than to the innate superiority
of aircraft design. By the fourth day of
battle, both sides were having difficulty getting any planes into the air.
The
Organization of American States negotiated a ceasefire and El Salvador agreed
to return to its side of the border. Though the
war only lasted roughly 100 hours, more than 6,000 people died and 12,000 people were wounded. An estimated 50,000 people lost their homes
as villages and countless farms were destroyed.
Technically, even now—some 46 years later—the dispute is ongoing.
Such a
strange war! Now, it seems almost impossible that most of the world missed
it. Even at the time, few people paid
any attention to it. This was not solely
because the world cared little about Central America. Something else was happening that
attracted everyone's attention. The war
started shortly after Apollo 11 launched, and ended the same day that Neil
Armstrong stepped out of the Eagle,
the lunar lander, onto the surface of the moon.
Most of the
United States was too busy looking up to take any time to look south.
Sometimes I wonder whether the governments of countries like that start wars just to reduce the population a bit and to let off all that pent off steam that, otherwise, might have been directed at themselves. If you can get people focused on some foreign country, they don't pay so much attention to the corrupt bastards that are running their own government.
ReplyDeleteOn an unrelated subject, the President just asked Congress for permission to invade some place or other with not enough men, equipment or preparation. Just thought I'd throw that in for no particular reason.